schiesser



(No Model.) 3 SheetsSheet 1.

J. SOHIESSER. CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOB. TUGK STITCH GOODS.

' N0.- 54'7,684. Patented 0013.8,1895.

a f a 1 1 1 %W%\\ 41 3 SheetsSheet 2.

"(No Model.)

J. 'SOHIESSER. CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR TUOK STITCH GOODS.

Patented Oct. 8

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet s.

J. SGHIESSER. CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR TUUK STITCH GOODS.

No. 547,684. Patented Oct. 8, 1895.

NIT- D STATES ATENT Fries.

' JACQUES SOHIESSER, OF 'RADOLFZELL, GERMANY.

CIRCULAR-KNITTING MACHINE FOR TUCK-STITCH GOODS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 547,684, datedOctober 8, 1895.

Application fil d August 15,1893. Serial No. 483,222. (No model.) Patent n Germany September 2, .374: n

France October 6, 1892, No. 224,754} in Sweden October 10, 1892, No. 4,362; in Belgium October 12, 1892,1111. 101,716 in p i October 7, 89 in Ita y October 22, 1892,110. 32,892 835; in England October 31,1s92,m.19,55s;

in Switzerland December and 1,216.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JACQUES SCHIESSER, a citizen of Switzerland, residing at Radolfzell, in the Grand Duchy of Baden, German Empire, have inventednew and useful Improvements in Circular-Knitting Machines for Tuck-Stitch Goods, (for which I have obtained Letters Patent in Germany, No. 73,37 4, dated September 25, 1892; in England, No. 19,553, dated October 31, 1892'; in Italy, No. 32,892/335, dated October 22, 1892; in Austria-Hungary, Nos. 50,658 and 90,591 and Nos. 1,284 and 1,216, dated April 29,1893; in France, No. 224,754, dated October 6, 1892; in Belgium, No. 101,716, dated October 12, 1892; in Spain, No. 13,848, dated October 17,. 1892; in Sweden, No. 4,362, dated October 10, 1892, and in Switzerland, No. 5,358, dated December 15, 1892,) of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to apparatus for the in circular frames by means of tuck-wheels, and more particularly refers to such fabrics as present longitudinal or diagonal stripes or stripes intersecting so as to form squares, triangles, and other designs of any suitable size, while their backs or wrong sides are smooth. e

A feature-of the fabric produced by means of the improved apparatus forming the subject of this invention is that the threadsv at the back are tied to the front stitches in a pcculiar manner, instead of beingloose, and are not visible on the right or front side of the fabric. I 1 v In the ordinary method of manufacturing colored or'striped goods in apparatus having tuck-stitch wheels the thread which serves to form one of the colored stripes is loosely passed on thewrong side of the fabric over the proper stripe of adifie'rent color. In other words, it does not participate 1n the knitting andextends loosely as f as the neXt stripe of the same color. I ever, has been foundto be attended by vanous drawbacks in practice, especially where the thread in question has to extend across comparatively-wide spaces equivalent t o, say,

This method, how- 'to this invention.

15, 1892,1To- 5,358, and in Austria-Hungary April; 29,1893, Nos- 50, 658 and 90,594 and Nos. 1,284

seven, nine, fifteen, or more stitches, the'consequence being that such knitted goods have only been employed hitherto to a very limited extent, since after being worn for some time, and particularly after being frequently washed, the fabric becomes felted and the loose threads become Weak and fragile' .borders at the ends of the stripes being irregularly set and not so close together as the other stitches, so that patches of loose fabric become visible, which not only destroy the. regularity of the design, but also give the im-. pression of the fabric not being quite smooth. manufacture of colored tuck-stitched goods Now in the fabric produced according to my present invention the drawbacks just mentioned are avoided, the thread forming one of the colored stripes being, instead of lying loosely at the back ofthe fabric, tied up with and taken up in the knitting of the right front stitch without, however, exercising any influence on this stitch itself, since it is not visible through i the stripe. This method makes the fabric considerably stronger and better capable of resisting friction, and protects the thread a from felting and breaking,

Another advantage is that as the threads in question are tied up with the fabricthe material becomes thicker and more substantial than if the said threads, as hitherto, form loose loops at the back or on wrong side of the knitted fabric, since they are now em-- bodied in the knitting itself, so that a stronger and more durable material is produced.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1.

shows, diagrammatically the knitting of the threads in a fabric as usually manufactured with loose back threads. sponding view of a piece of fabric according Fig. 3 is a part section of the stitch-forming portion of a knitting-machine arranged according to this invention.

Fig. 2 is a corre-- .ihrcads already lying on those needles.

Figs. 4 and 5 are views to a larger scale, illustrating the combined action of the needles and sinkers. Figs. 6 and 7 are diagrammatic views representing the arrangement of two series of needles and other parts arranged in the same frame, but illustrated as being in a straight line (for clearness) instead of in the arc of a circle.

In manufacturing knitted fabrics according to this invention the thread a, Fig. 1,

which, as stated, was hitherto allowed to hang loosely on the back of the fabric and was not knitted or woven up with it, (see the back of the fabric as shown in Fig. 1,) and which in circular frames extends at times over the whole series of untucked needles, is located and looped,as shown in Fig. 2,in such a manner that before the formation of the next row of stitches is commenced it takes up its position in the needles similarly to the liningthread used in one-to-one chain-knitting in readiness to be knitted up together with the The fabric may, as shown in the accompanying drawings, be formed in French circular frames with a rotary needle-ring, a stitch-forming device fitted with the necessary sinkers, and sinker-rods for operating the needles and thread to form stitches as required, and also with the required tuckwheels, reducingwheels, and inolosing wheels arrangedin the ordinary manner. For each thread intended to form a given design a different system of stitch-forming is provided for, each stitch or 100p former serving for one thread. Each stitch-former is provided with a series of two different types of sinkers. The sinkers e, as is well known, serve in circular frames to insert the thread to be knitted into the point (hook) of the needle, and theyare adapted so to move between the needles that the front hook g of the sinker, as the stitch-former turns, in moving backward comes into contact with the thread, and thus brings the thread a, lying in the front hook g, into the said needle-hook. The remaining sinkers are all adapted to move similarly to the first, with the general result that the needle-ring and the sinkers situated at aFertain angle to each other move in the same direction, (similarly to what they do in the so'called Stuttgart stitch-former,) so that in each of the needlepoints (books) they place a thread to be subsequently taken up by the knitting. To form these threads into loops in the knitting, the needlehooks are pressed down and the stitches carried by the needles,,or, in other words, the portion of fabric that is ready is moved toward the needle-hooks, so that these stitches pass over the needle-hooks, and as they descend along the head of the needle remain suspended on the threads (now formed into meshes or stitches) which the 'sinkers e have placed in the needle-hooks. When, however, instead of pressing down the points of all the needles uniformly and without exception, a certain number of them is periodically left outsay seven--which may be effected by means of tuck-wheels recessed for the purpose at the corresponding parts, there will be formed at that part a loose thread (see me in Fig. 1) as the fabric is drawn into the needle-hooks of the seven needles which have not been tucked. To avoid the formation of this loose thread, or so to distribute it in the needle-hooks that its position is similar to the lining-thread in one-to-one chainknitting, there is provided, according to the present invention, either on the left or on the right side of the front hook g of every other sinker e' of the stitch-former, corresponding to the unpressed or untucked needles, a small pin it, which, as the sinkers descend between the needles, meets and presses upon the needle-points, and thus, instead of inserting the thread into the needle-hook, causes it to slide past these hooks as far as the needle-head, when, by means of the stripping-wheel, the thread is stripped off and carried over the needle. As the material is drawn in again the thread will be so distributed in the various needles that it has exactly the same appearance asthe lining-thread in a oneto-one chain-stitch-knitting frame. When, therefore, the next row of stitches is commenced, this thread may be taken up in the knitting. It should be borne in mind inthis connection that the sinkers corresponding to the untucked or unpressed needles y y should not all be provided with pins, but only, say, every other sinker.

Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate the method of operation of a sinker of this construction with one thread a only. One sinker e is provided with a pin it, while the next sinker e carries no pin. Fig. 5'shows how the sinker e, carrying the pin it, having passed the thread over the needle-hook y, tends to throw it off, while the sinker e, unprovided with apin, has

just drawn the thread into the needle-hook y,

where it is retained. All that has been said with reference to one stitch-former is also applicable to the second or third, and so on, whatever their number, except that each of them will have to work in a special thread of a difierent color.

Supposing it is desired to produce knitted fabric in which a red stripe five stitches wide alternates with alblack stripe seven stitches wide, the width of the whole design thus be- .ing twelve stitches, the first stitch-former O,

which has to work in the red threadA, requires two series of sinkers, one series of five ordinary sinkers for knitting the thread A in the usual manner and another series of seven sinkers, of which the first, third, fifth, and seventh (or the second, fourth, and sixth) are provided each with a small pin h. The tuckwheel or presser-wheel I, appertaining to this first stitch-former, acts upon the first five needles and leaves the seven following needles unpressed, owing to the recess 7, provided in the corresponding part of the tuck-wheel.

Then the next following five needles are again devices.

pressed down,and so on. The second stitchbut not the adjoining series of five needles,

owing to the recesses 5.

Figs. 6 and 7 represent the arrangement of two series of needles and other parts arranged in the same frame in a straight line, for the sake of clearness, instead-of in the arc of a circle. N N are the inclosing wheels; 0 O,

the stitch-formers, each of which worksone' of the threads forming the design. T M are the tuck wheels. P P are the stripping wheels. 'iare sinker-rods. e are stitch-forming sinkers; R R, sinker-wedges. Each colored stripe requires one group or series of these The process is applicable to threads of all kinds and colors and to any desired combination of such threads, and it may also be employed in cases where a lining is knitted together with the main or upper fabric.

In Fig. 3 I have showna portion of a wellknown form of circular-knitting machine, by

which, in connection with my improved devices before described, the fabric shown in Fig. 2 may be produced. Referring to said figure, e 6 indicate the sinkers. These sinkers, of which about three hundred work at times, are held by a mesher f, which consists of the plates attached to the same axle and having as many incisions as there are sinkers working together. in these incisions in the usual manner, and the front hook g of each sinker during the rotation of the mesher falls at times between the needles, and on further rotation of the mesher the sinkers are moved rearwardly by a cam-plate f, mounted on the same shaft as the mesher and engaging notches in the ends of the sinkers, as shown. The sinkers e' in their backward movement cause the thread to engage the needle-hooks, while the pins h of the sinkers a press their corresponding hooks and permit the thread to slip over the same.

What I claim is- In a circular knitting machine, the combination with the hooked needles and rotary tuck wheels, of a rotary stitch former carrying a series of hooked sinkers adapted to engage thethread, each alternate sinker of each alternate set 2, 6, being provided with a lateral pin 72. adapted to press and close the point of the corresponding needle hooks and permit the thread to slip over such hooks, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of two subscribing wit nesses.

JACQUES SCIIIESSER.

Witnesses:

Mrs. A. H. LOWRIE, ADOLF FREY.

The sinkers are'inserted' 

